Is the Polka Dot Political?
Polka dots are back! And they truly never left - the cheerful spots will always be a timeless classic. But what do the polka dots of this spring and summer have in store for us? And how do they compare to the polka dots of times past?
Lana Del Rey once said, “I love you lots like polka dots.” The loud and gregarious pattern is enveloping and entirely eye-catching. Whether you love them or hate them, they are hard to ignore. As I saw polka dots slowly seeping into this year's fashion trends, I began to think about their historical significance. Could the pattern signify something greater? Do they serve as a glimpse of sweetness amongst a tumultuous social and political climate? Is it possible that they are a pushback against convention and restrictions? It is well known that style is incredibly symbolic and can often reflect the current state of the world. Are polka dots just a passing trend - or something greater?
Polka Dots of the Past
When the sewing machine was invented in 1720, spots were produced in a more circular and even manner. Previously hand painted or sewn, spotted patterns had generally signified disease and were associated with the Plague. Thankfully, the 1840’s brought a new meaning to polka dots. The term “polka dot” stems from the Czech Polka Dance, in which couples danced in “půlka” or “little half” steps. In a Cosmopolitan article about the historical significance of polka dots, author Lauren Adhav mentions the first time that the word “polka dot” was ever used in print, in a women’s lifestyle magazine Godey’s Lady’s Book in 1857:
“Scarf of muslin, for light summer wear, surrounded by a scalloped edge, embroidered in rows of round polka dots.”
From this, a polka dot craze in Eastern Europe began, but it was not until the 1920s that the Polka Dot made its way to the U.S.
The roaring twenties were a time of social and economic prosperity, and with that came a new style of dress - and the polka dot. The youthful, distinctly feminine pattern gained popularity as a celebratory response to the post-WWI country. In 1926, Norma Smallwood, the first Indigenous Miss America, sported a dotted swimsuit, contributing to the trend’s popularity and the vibrant consumer culture of the time. Two years later, Walt Disney created Minnie Mouse, a sweet feminine cartoon character with an iconic red and white polka dot dress. In the 1930’s, the beloved child actress Shirley Temple wore a red and white Minnie Mouse inspired dress in the 1934 film “Stand up and Cheer.” In the 50’s and 60’s, Marilyn Monroe, Lucille Ball, and Twiggy were all seen in the playful pattern.
The 60’s popularized pop art, and artists like Roy Lichtenstein often utilized polka dots. The time also brought Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama - often referred to as the “princess of polka dots” - into the spotlight. Kusama’s artwork is characteristically spotted and thought provoking. Whereas polka dots within fashion were associated with traditional feminine clothing and youthful dispositions, Kusama expanded on the polka dot’s seemingly simplistic nature. At age ten, Kusama became enamored with the pattern. Even when her mother took away her art supplies, wanting her to focus on other things, Kusama still found a way back to polka dots. She has been creating art with the shapes ever since. Her artwork in the 60’s was a response to the turbulent political climate. In a letter addressed to Richard Nixon, she said:
“Our earth is like one little polka dot, among millions of other celestial bodies, one orb full of hatred and strife amid the peaceful, silent spheres. Let’s you and I change all that and make this world a new Garden of Eden…. You can’t eradicate violence by using more violence.”
Polka Dots of the Now
This pattern is political. Whether it’s presented as a traditionally feminine callback to a more conservative time, or as a transformative symbol of resisting or rejoicing in a new political era, the polka dot is political. It is the intention behind the wearer that drives the force of the dots. In an article by Artsy, author Kelly Kelleher recounts the words of Judy Stewart at Slate. Stewart asserts:
“The tiniest of tweaks—packing the dots more tightly together, say, or allowing them to jostle and overlap—could produce a woozy sense of acceleration, even an exhilarating disorientation. These two qualities combined—child-friendliness with intoxication—tinged the polka dot with a distinctly female aura, mother and sexpot rolled into one round body.”
Stewart also explains that polka dots “are not only of Americana and femininity, but also that particular performative form of femininity that subverts the sweetness and childishness expected of (some) adult women by embracing it.” Modern examples of this include Zooey Deschanel’s 2010’s twee style, as well as Lana Del Rey’s vintage Americana wear, and even more recently, Sabrina Carpenter wearing Blondita in her “Taste” music video.
The innocence and playfulness of the polka dot is apparent, and while I don’t think the recent resurgence of the pattern is necessarily good or bad, it does speak to the current political state of the U.S. Are the new polka dots transformative and joyful, or is the trend setting us back in the same way that the rise of “coquette” (sorry, not sorry) and bows did? All this being said, I am a polka dot lover, but I find it interesting to understand where the trends that we know and love stem from. By becoming more aware of these trends, we can gain greater style consciousness, political insight, and an awareness of how the two fundamentally intertwine.
Sources:
https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-history-polka-dot-minnie-mouse-yayoi-kusama
https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/a32839249/polka-dot-history/
Sources for Cover:
https://hypebae.com/2023/2/marni-fall-winter-tokyo-collection-runway-francesco-risso-images
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/367324913377715486/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/367324913377715009/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/367324913377715068/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/367324913377698668/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/367324913377698661/